Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. So something is triggering the ECU to be in Open Loop. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). Chris, The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. One of them might be faulty. Thanks in advance for any advice. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. What should I be looking at to calm this down? I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. Its timed to 36 degrees. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. back to trying to zero down an idle. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. Only show this user . My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. Hello If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. Hey Chris If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? Holley have given a new unit. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Without it you are working in the dark. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. However, I have never found that to be the case. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. If that tested out okay then I can really guess that there might be some sort of intermittent, temporary RFI. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. Do please let us know what you find out! There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. I think you'll be all set! You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. That is the only way to fly. I never had a problem with this. Thanks. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. This is more of a bit of a reality check. Did you find this enlightening? Should the iac% fluctuate? I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. Enjoy your Sniper! You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. I'll have to check again tomorrow. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. I believe because the TPS is not registering. When I shut it off then start it A couple of those and you should feel it getting better. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. The throttle position should be zero. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. I can get it to fire up on the Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. Interesting situation you have. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). That is not the way to go. idle counts from 0. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Should I just disable idle timing control? After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN I'll give the ". Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. Is that normal? You are aware of the idle-up problem. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. Yes its at 95lbs, needless to say he promised a new regulator would be in the If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. My Sniper is 99% great! It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. the issue I guess we can't have everything. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw.
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